“… the present collar does not date from the 15th Century but from the end of the 17th Century. Before the Civil War the Tudor Rose would have been jewelled or at least enamelled; furthermore the portrait by Van Dyck of Lord Chief Justice Littleton created 1640 Justice of the Common Pleas shows a collar with a pearl and jewelled Tudor Rose … The earliest record of the present collar appears to be 1714 when it was handed by Lord Trevor to his successor Sir Peter king. According to Riches (op.cit.) there is proof of succession from this date until the collar passed into the possession of Lord Coleridge in 1873£25,000 -35,000”
“Possibly given by Henry VIII to Sir Edward Montagu between 1546-7. Almost certainly with Sir Edward Montague by 1551 and then passed to every subsequent Lord Chief Justice of Common Pleas until acquired by Lord Coleridge in 1873. Thence by descent until acquired by the present owner.”
“There can be no doubt that the Coleridge Collar is truly an historic and incredible survival of 16th century English goldsmith work. It is even more remarkable that by using a combination of art historical and scientific analyses, one can convincingly date the collar to between 1546 and 1551.”
“Q. So it would not be right, would it, to say that the collars were ordered by the King and sums of money and coin were ordered from the mint in order to forge new collars for the chief justices? A. I have know of no evidence of that. It is not inconceivable that the earliest collars were gifts from the crown, but there is no evidence that I am aware of. Q. Would you agree that the evidence is that in the 16th Century the chief justices regarded their chains as personal property to be disposed of as they pleased? In fairness, you have referred to a number of wills, have you looked at wills for all of the judges where wills were available or a selection? A. I would say quite a lot. I would not say every one but a large number”
“Q:You were told by Mr. Campbell about his theory that this linked it with the debasement of the coinage at the time of Henry VIII? A. Yes. I said at the meeting that I thought that was a little bit hare-brained. Q. So you do not agree with that theory. A. There is no need to agree with it. 20 carat has been used probably from 1478 to 1576. The argument that the Collar has to have been made during the period that the coinage was debased simply because it coincides with the purity of the coinage that was used for that short period I think is a non-starter quite honestly. I told Duncan that.”
“She should have put forward two possible views. One possible view is that the Collar post-dates the Restoration, and this is what my learned friend had to say about that. He said that the only points which justify that are a 1701 date. That was not actually referred to by Mrs. Mitchell. In her catalogue entry sticks with the 1714 date. The 1701 date, apparently, derived from Foss. "No enamelling", and that is it. So that is the possible view as to post-Interregnum. The view as to the "Tudor period", in summary, is as follows. There is a long-standing legal tradition referred to in all the scholarly literature, save for Riches, that this Collar is the oldest of all known judicial collars of esse and dates back to the Tudor period. She could have referred expressly to Bonner and Purey-Cust in that regard. It is, however, impossible to date the Collar using current scientific processes. Science is not sufficiently advanced to date this Collar. No historical record exists proving this Collar's provenance before it came into the possession of John Duke Coleridge in the late 19th century. The dating is, to a certain extent, uncertain. However, there are many reasons why the tradition may well be true. The gold content of 20 carats of the esses, knots and portcullis means that it would have been illegal to make those parts of the Collar between 1576 and 1798, when the minimum gold standard was 22 carat. It is unlikely that those elements of the Chief Justice's Collar were produced illegally and sub-standard. The rose is 22 carat and unenamelled. It may well be a post 1660 edition to the Collar. The esses, knots and portcullises appear to be significantly older. Those of a similar 1660 collar, that of the Chief Baron of the Exchequer in the Gilbert Collection, are made of a higher standard and by a more sophisticated method of manufacture. … The date of manufacture is, to a certain extent uncertain but the Collar is believed to be "probably Tudor" rather than dating from any other period, for the reasons set out above. Auction estimate, if you are interested in this:£200,000 to£300,000 ”
“The gold or silver article is rubbed on a smooth black stone to produce a narrow streak of the metal. Then a similar streak was made alongside using an alloy of known purity called a touch needle. The colours of the two streaks were compared. Quite small differences could be detected …”